MTB bike frames

Bi-suspension, front or rigid: which MTB frame to choose?

The choice depends on the terrain, the budget, and how much maintenance you are willing to do. Below you will find the basic differences between the three families.

Bi-suspension frame

It has a hinged rear swingarm and a rear shock. It offers more control and comfort on rough and technical terrain, and keeps the rear wheel in contact with the ground. In exchange, it costs more, weighs a bit more, and requires more maintenance: periodic shock service, and over time, replacement of swingarm bearings and pivots. Many frames are sold already as a kit with the rear shock. If you are only interested in this family, consult the page dedicated to MTB full suspension frames.

fFront frame (hardtail)

It has a fixed rear swingarm and mounts a suspension fork. It is simpler and lighter, costs less, and has fewer parts to maintain. It is suitable for climbs, smooth trails, and for those approaching MTB or seeking maximum pedaling efficiency. On very rough terrain, it offers less comfort and control than a bi-suspension frame.

Rigid frame

It has no rear suspension and is designed to be paired with a rigid fork, so with no suspension at all. It is the most essential solution, with minimal maintenance, but transmits all the roughness of the terrain to the rider. It is chosen for less rough trails or for simpler bike use.

Travel: how much is needed

Travel is the suspension stroke, in millimeters, and usually goes hand in hand with bike use. The values are indicative:

• Cross country: about 80-100 mm, with recent models reaching 120 mm.
• Trail: about 120-160 mm.
• Enduro: about 150-180 mm.
• Downhill: about 180-200 mm.
• Hardtail: generally around 100 mm for cross country, up to 150 mm for more aggressive models.

The exact value for each frame is indicated by the manufacturer and must be respected when choosing the fork and shock.

MTB frame material: carbon, aluminum, and steel

The material affects weight, stiffness, durability, and price:

• Carbon: it is the lightest and stiffest, with a ready response. In case of a strong impact, it can crack, and a broken frame is generally not recoverable. In the catalog, you will find the section dedicated to MTB carbon frames.
• Aluminum: on average, it costs less than carbon, but weighs more. In case of impact, it tends to deform rather than break.
• Steel: it is heavy but robust, dampens vibrations better, and can be repaired. It is found mainly on front frames.

More than the material, design and build quality matter: a good aluminum frame can cost more than a carbon one with a basic spec.

Components to mount: fork and shock

The MTB frame pairs with a fork and, if bi-suspension, with a rear shock. Before purchasing, check these data:

• Fork: maximum travel allowed by the frame, wheel diameter (29" or 27.5"), axle standard, steerer tube type, and compatibility with disc brakes. You will find suspension forks and rigid forks in the dedicated section.
• Rear shock: eye-to-eye (distance between the centers of the two mounting holes) and stroke, indicated for example as 210 x 55, and mount type, standard or trunnion, which are not interchangeable. Shocks are available in the same section.
• Other standards: headset, bottom bracket, and rear axle, to be verified in the frame technical sheet.

If you want to complete the bike, start from the MTB bicycle already assembled, or ask our team for advice to choose the right components. For assembly, you can contact our workshop.

Used MTB frame: what to check

If you are considering a used frame, carefully check these parts:

• Cracks, dents, bends, and old repairs, even under the paint. On carbon, look for signs of impact like deep scratches or chipped paint, as it can fail without warning.
• Play in the rear swingarm: moving the wheel laterally should not show obvious play; otherwise, the bearings need replacement.
• Bottom bracket and headset: verify that they rotate without friction, noise, or play.

In the Used section, you will find used MTBs and used components.

Other frame families for off-road

If this page does not cover your use, explore the other frame categories for dirt trails:

• All Mountain - Enduro frames, for technical descents with more travel.
• DH - FR frames, for downhill and freeride.
• Fat bike frames, for extra-large tires on snow, sand, and soft ground.
• Cyclocross and Gravel frames, for less demanding dirt trails and gravel roads.

You can also return to the page with all frames to see every category.

Frequently asked questions about MTB frames

Is a front frame or bi-suspension better?

The front is cheaper, lighter, and simpler to maintain, and is suitable for climbs and smooth trails. The bi-suspension offers more comfort and control on technical terrain, but costs more and requires more maintenance.

Carbon or aluminum for an MTB frame?

Carbon is lighter and stiffer, but generally more expensive. Aluminum costs less and in case of impact tends to deform rather than break. It depends on budget and use.

Can I mount a fork with more travel than indicated by the frame?

It is not recommended. Every frame has a maximum fork travel indicated by the manufacturer. Exceeding it changes the geometry and can compromise safety. Always check the data in the frame technical sheet.